You don’t buy from TSMC, but from Intel. Also, AMD also uses TSMC, they didn’t have such problems recently.

Are they any close? Seems like they’ve been doing it for ages and they aren’t close.

In Futurama, they renamed it to Urectum :)

Agree, it didn’t do anything to avoid the obstacle. A human could probably see it as an obstacle and try to swerve to the side, albeit not knowing what it is. Not saying it’s possible to avoid, but some reaction would be made.

This looks like heat creep and/or clog. Check the hotend fan (not the part cooling one). If it starts happening after a while, it’s either that or the nozzle has cooled too much. But if it happens with lower speed as well, then I wouldn’t say it’s that it’s the latter. Try increasing the temperature. I’m printing mine at 270°C. Also I keep the bed at 70°C but that’s not important. I’ve had issues like that with bad conducting nozzles (hardened/stainless steel) and thermistors not properly seated on the heat block. When this happens, pause the print, try feeding the filament by hand and see if there is any resistance (can you feel the clog). Try increasing the temperature, reduce the retraction distance to try and avoid it. I’m printing exclusively with petg for years now, never had issues like this due to moisture. You get more stringing, yes, but no failures on actual printing.

You’re completely right, I forgot about that method. I’ve used it in the past, it works great and is far more controllable and safe.

True, I’ve seen many molten rolls of filament because of overly warm ovens. Make sure it doesn’t go over 60C and you’re good. Mine is good, has a little overshoot when heating up, but if you let it warm up first and then put the filament, it generally stays very close to 60C. I havent had problems. Other ovens - be careful. Food dehydrator is better, but if you don’t have it, you may as well buy an actual filament dryer. Desicant beads didn’t work for me. They do the trick of maintaining the dryness, but if you have ANY built up moisture in your filament, the beads won’t do much.

A little mini torch, similar to a regular gas lighter also can work wonderfully.

As others have mentioned:

• Dry your filament. Stick it in the oven for 2+ hours on minimal settings. If you have a fan in the oven, even better. edit: use the printer bed, see comments below
• Tune your printer. Do a temperature tower with your dried filament. Lower temperatures might improve quality at the expense of lower layer adhesion. Do a flow calibration routine. Overextrusion can also have effects like this.
• Slow down the printing. Increase minimal layer time, which might have an effect. If it’s original E3, it has relatively poor part cooling, which can be compensated by slowing things down.

Nothing wrong with Ender 3, if you thinker enough, you can get results as good as any other printer. But it may require tinkering. The model that you’re printing is difficult with FDM printers of any kind. It has thin, delicate parts with steep overhangs. It can look better, but it’s gonna be hard to achieve. Resin printers are definitely a better choice for this, but you use what you have.

Well, I’ve been a C/C++ dev for half of my career, I didn’t find Rust syntax ugly. Some things are better than others, but not a major departure from C/C++. ObjC is where ugly is at. And I even think swift is more ugly. In fact, I can’t find too many that are as close to C/C++ as Rust. As for logic… Well, I want to say you’ll get used to it, but for some things, it’s not true. Rust is a struggle. Whether it’s worth it, is your choice. I personally would take it over C++ any day.

In 2024? No, unless it’s a plus. Plus already has that support. E5 has an 8 bit board and no silent drivers. If I’d be buying today,I’d buy sovol sv08. It has everything already done to it while being open source and is able to be modded out of the box.

Oh, yes, it caused weird resonant vibrations at certain speeds. A terrible design and way too flexible bed. Some people print some struts, but I didn’t find them to be much of a solution. I ended up mirroring the far side and copying it to front. Now it’s very rigid and the quality has vastly improved especially at speed printing.

I did it and I’m very satisfied with the result. Though I went full diy and ordered parts individually. I did all of the printed parts from recycled PET from bottles which I recycled myself. The rest I ordered from aliexpress. I have a previous version, didn’t get around to update. I made an adaptor for herome gen 6 hotend holder and made it with mostly stock e3d v6 hotend. I just added a cht nozzle. Don’t need anything else. But the best mod IMO is the dual z axis which I recommend even without mercury conversion.

Edit: I did it on ender 5, have no clue what’s the difference on other printers.

So, not the droid we Are looking for… :(

mexican russian joker

From my small experience with Qualcomm in the past, I’m not too hopeful. In a company I used to work for, we wanted to use one of their SoC with Linux, which they claimed they supported. It was many years ago. But was full of closed binary blobs which even when signing NDAs, we couldn’t get the source for. We’re talking user-space drivers, sensors offloaded to a separate core with closed source firmware etc. It’s Linux, but it’s not Linux in spirit, it feels so closed and proprietary and secretive. They’re coming from Android, which google architecturally enabled vendors to close their drivers by utilizing HAL. It’s the single most significant blow to Linux by any corporation so far. It enabled thousands of vendors to close their shitty driver in user-space and not maintain it for newer kernels (kernel driver is just an IO proxy for user-space drivers). I get that without it, there wouldn’t be Android phones we have today, but I expected them to slowly open up. 10+ years later, almost nothing changed, in fact - things seem worse to me.

This looks the most promising. I’ll take a closer look. Does it provide a rtsp stream?

How about just having a button on a fob/phone which initiates comms, like in the good old days. You can’t relay the signal if there isn’t one till you press the button. But that isn’t sexy and it’s too similar to traditional cars, so they won’t do it.

Any PC that has virtualization features can be used. Unless it’s very old, I’d say it’s supported. But it may not be enabled in the bios by default. It’s called VT-x for Intel and AMD-v for AMD, I think. But both are supported for at least 10 years on almost any PC.

It’s a hypervisor level virtual machine host and you can use it to install multiple os’s on the same machine with little overhead. I’ve been running haos like that for a few months now and I’m super satisfied.